"An Introduction to Medical-Grade Skincare; Unveiling its Benefits"

Good skincare is fundamental to maintaining a healthy, youthful complexion. Certain elements such as daily cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection are fundamental, whereas the use of products containing specific active ingredients are required to address more specific skin concerns. Good skincare regimens work synergistically with aesthetic treatments to enable us to delay and reverse the signs of ageing, treat hyperpigmentation, improve skin texture, treat acne, eczema and rosacea and brighten and hydrate the skin. But with thousands of brands and products out there, navigating the world of skincare can be overwhelming and demoralising. The key to success is establishing which products work to target your specific skin concern.  

What’s the difference; cosmetics vs. cosmeceuticals vs. medical-grade skincare

There are three main categories of skincare products; over-the-counter (OTC) cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and medical-grade skincare. Cosmetic products are generally cheap and contain no active ingredients. They therefore have little or no ability to significantly impact the skin. They may temporarily mask skin issues, such as fine lines, by sitting in the superficial layer of skin and filling them in, but their effects are transient and they are incapable of producing lasting change.

Cosmeceuticals are the next step up from OTC skincare. They are cosmetic products with bioactive ingredients, that have some capacity to target more significant skin complaints. However, the low levels of active ingredients in these products, combined with suboptimal delivery systems, means that they are unable to have transformative effects on the skin as the active ingredients are unable to reach the layer of the skin where they have their effect.

Medical-grade skincare products are the most effective available. In contrast to cosmetics or cosmeceuticals, medical-grade skincare is capable of treating the most serious skin concerns such as acne, hyperpigmentation and ageing signs. It is able to do this as the products contain high levels of active ingredients, which are combined with sophisticated delivery systems to ensure that the actives are transported to the correct layer of the skin where they have the maximum benefit. Medical-grade products undergo rigorous medical tests to ensure both safety and effectiveness. They may be prescription or non-prescription, depending on the active ingredients they contain and their quantities. Many medical-grade brands must be recommended by trained medical professionals.

Before and after 8 weeks of use of the Obagi Nu-Derm system for anti-ageing

Why is medical-grade skincare superior?

1. Higher concentrations of active ingredients: The higher concentrations of active ingredients is the primary reason for their superiority. Active ingredients are the components that directly affect the skin's condition, such as retinoids, vitamin C, peptides, hydroquinone and growth factors.

1. Superior delivery systems: The systems present in medical-grade skincare are designed to boost the penetration and absorption of active ingredients into the deep layers of the skin. Encapsulation, liposomal delivery, and time-release formulations are techniques that allow the active ingredients to reach their target areas and remain there for long periods of time. This maximizes the benefits of active ingredients, enhancing skin improvements.

1. Clinically proven: Medical-grade products undergo the most stringent clinical testing to ensure safety and effectiveness. Being subject to clinical trials, they have proven results. This ensures that the products deliver on their promises and, when used correctly, produce reliable results for users.

Essential Active Ingredients in Skincare: Benefits and Key Differences

Unlike the inactive ingredients, which serve as carriers or preservatives, active ingredients directly target specific skin concerns such as ageing, acne, pigmentation, and texture issues.

Retinol and Retinoids: Retinol and retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, a widely acclaimed skincare ingredient due to its remarkable anti-aging benefits. Retinoids, including tretinoin and adapalene, are more potent and are prescribed for acne, deep wrinkles, and significant hyperpigmentation. Vitamin A derivatives work by increasing cell turnover and increasing collagen production. They may cause temporary side effects such as dryness, irritation and flaking, so the dose and frequency need to be increased gradually. They are unsafe in pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant known for its brightening and anti-aging properties. It neutralizes free radicals, unstable molecules in the atmosphere that damage skin cells and accelerate aging. Vitamin C helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines, dark spots and wrinkles, improves skin texture, and evens out skin tone. The key to ensuring vitamin C works is not only using a high concentration of vitamin C, but also ensuring that the delivery system is capable of transporting the nutrient to the correct layer of the skin. Medical-grade formulations are therefore recommended. 

Hydroquinone: Hydroquinone is a powerful compound used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. It is a tyrosinase inhibitor, an enzyme that inhibits the production of new melanin (skin pigment) by melanocytes (pigment-producing cells in the skin). Hydroquinone works best in combination with retinol/retinoids. It may cause dryness or irritation and SPF should be worn daily when using it. Prescription strength formulations are most effective.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the AHAs most commonly used in skincare. They exfoliate the skin's surface by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, revealing fresher, smoother skin beneath. AHAs are particularly effective for treating fine lines, sun damage, and uneven skin tone. 

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Salicylic acid and benzyl peroxide are the most common BHAs used in skincare. BHAs are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deep into the pores and dissolve excess sebum and debris. They treat breakouts, blackheads, and clogged pores.

Each of these key active ingredients, offers unique benefits for the skin, addressing various concerns from ageing to acne. By incorporating the right combination of these ingredients into a skincare routine, individuals can achieve healthier, clearer, and more radiant skin.

Before and after 5 weeks of use of the Obagi NuDerm system for hyperpigmentation

Consistency is the Key- All you need to know about a good skincare routine

A good skincare routine is essential for maintaining healthy, radiant skin and preventing various dermatological issues. Some products are essential and others optional, depending on your skincare concerns.

1. Cleanser: The foundation of any skincare routine starts with a cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and impurities without stripping the skin of its natural moisture. Cleanser is essential to prepare the skin for the absorption of active ingredients. Some cleansers contain active ingredients themselves, e.g. BHA-containing cleansers that are used to exfoliate the skin and reduce oil levels in acne-prone individuals.  

2. Active Ingredient: Incorporating an active ingredient tailored to your skin’s needs can address specific concerns. For anti-aging, consider a combination of vitamin C in the morning and a retinol/retinoid product in the evening to promote cell turnover and collagen production. Hydroquinone or alternative agents can be added in if hyperpigmentation is an issue.

3. Moisturizer: A good moisturizer is crucial for maintaining the skin’s hydration and barrier function. Select a lightweight, non-comedogenic formula for oily skin, and a richer, more emollient one for dry skin.

4. SPF (Sun Protection Factor): Sunscreen is the most important step to any skincare regime to protect against UV damage, which leads to premature aging and skin cancer. A standalone SPF, of at least factor 30, should be used daily, and reapplied frequently in sunny weather or when sweating. Ensure that the neck and decollate are covered daily.

By consistently following this routine, you can achieve and maintain healthier, more resilient skin, while addressing specific concerns with targeted treatments.

Product choice for achieving and Maintaining Youthful & Radiant Skin

Product choice is the hardest part of finding an effective skincare regimen. With so many brands and products out there, finding the ones that work can seem like an impossible task, especially as medical-grade skincare brands dedicate their budgets to research and development rather than advertising, meaning that they are not as well known as cosmeceutical brands.

The key point to remember is that not all products are created equal so two different 15% vitamin C products could have completely different effects on the skin, with one acting like a 5% and the other like a 30%, due to differences in the delivery systems. Therefore, although using a cosmetic or cosmeceutical brand’s cleanser or SPF may be sufficient, using medical-grade products to deliver your active ingredients is the key to generating change in the skin.

At Dr Horlick Aesthetics we demystify the world of skincare for you by recommending the best medical-grade products to suit your needs. Dr Horlick has undertaken extensive skincare research and training to find the most effective products on the market. She works with medical-grade skincare suppliers, GetHarley, who allow her to cherry pick the best products from a wealth of different brands, ensuring that you are getting the best recommendations possible.

Book your Skincare consultation with Dr. Horlick Aesthetics 

At Dr. Horlick Aesthetics, we understand that a good skincare routine is essential for maximising and maintaining the results of our in-clinic treatments. Our expert team is dedicated to helping you create a bespoke skincare regimen that will help you achieve your skincare goals. By incorporating professional skincare advice, we ensure that your skin is well-prepared and supported throughout your treatment journey.

Proper skincare not only improves the immediate outcomes but also promotes long-term skin health, making it crucial for everyone. Whether you're addressing ageing, pigmentation, acne, or simply preventing premature ageing, the personalized recommendations at Dr. Horlick Aesthetics will help you achieve radiant, youthful skin. Visit us to experience the transformative power of a comprehensive skincare approach. A complimentary skincare consultation will be included with every treatment or you can book a standalone skincare consultation online to kickstart your skincare journey.

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